A night on the fryer

The alarm goes at half past one (sample). By two the dough from yesterday is on the bench, cold and slow, and it needs rolling before anything else.

The rings rise for an hour while the fryer heats. Then it is ninety seconds a side, eight rings at a time, for about two and a half hours.

The best part is at half past five, when the glazing is done and the first customer is already waiting outside.