The four pearl types, their sizes drawn to scale and what our grades mean.
Akoya
Saltwater, 6–9 mm. Round and white with a rose overtone: the sharpest mirror lustre.
Farmed in Japan
Freshwater
Lake and river farmed, 4–8 mm. Cream, white and pastel, softer lustre, the gentlest prices.
Farmed in China
Tahitian
Saltwater, 8–14 mm. Natural graphite, green and peacock tones, never dyed.
Farmed in French Polynesia
South Sea
Saltwater, 9–16 mm. White to deep gold, thick nacre and a satin glow.
Farmed in Australia and Indonesia
Each pearl in the badges is drawn to scale at its type’s usual top size, in its natural colour.
Sizes, drawn to scale
Pearls are measured across, in millimetres. Each step up looks small on paper and large at the neck: here they are side by side, in the colour of the type that usually comes in that size.
4 mm
Seed pearls
6 mm
Bracelets
7 mm
First strand
8 mm
Classic strand
10 mm
Pendants
12 mm
Statement
14 mm
South Sea
16 mm
Rare
Our grades
One letter scale for lustre and surface together, the same on every grading line in the shop.
AAA
Sharp reflections; at most a mark or two, hidden by the drill hole
Mirror lustre
AA
Clear reflections; small marks on under a quarter of the surface
Bright lustre
A
A glow rather than a reflection; visible marks; the gentlest price
Soft lustre
Book a private viewing
Half an hour at the counter with the pieces you want to see, laid out on a white card under daylight lamps. Free, and there is no need to buy.