From a paper pattern to a coat

Every piece starts as a paper pattern, cut by hand on the big table (sample note). We then sew it in plain calico, a toile, and fit it on two people of different heights.

The Wrack coat needed four toiles: the first was too wide in the back, the second too short for the taller fitter, the third had a collar that stood away from the neck.

Only when the toile fits both people do we cut the wool. That is why we can change sleeve and body lengths for you before we cut yours.