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Tidewater AW26 is in the studio, Thursday to Saturday (sample)

The studio

Marram (sample) is a fashion label of four people in a former rope works in Springfield: two collections a year, made in short runs from cloth we choose at the mill.

A designer sketching at a cutting table next to a dress form with a toile pinned on it

A label that shows its working

We started in 2019 (sample) with one coat and a sewing machine in a spare room. The coat sold out, so we made it again in a second colour, and then a jumper to wear under it.

We still work that way: few pieces, each made to be worn with the others, shown as looks so you can see how they go together.

How a collection is made

From the first drawing to the piece in your hands takes about a year. These are the steps, in order.

1

Drawing

Every collection starts as a wall of drawings and cloth swatches, about eight months before it is shown (sample).

2

Toiles

Each piece is cut first in plain calico, fitted on two people of different heights and adjusted.

3

Cloth

We order cloth from the mills once the toiles are right, usually 300 to 600 metres per colour.

4

Samples

One sample of each piece, sewn in the studio, worn for a week by someone on the team.

5

The show and the lookbook

The samples are styled into looks, put in running order and photographed for the lookbook.

6

Production

A short run of each piece is made by a workroom 40 minutes away; the rest is made to pre-order.

In the studio

Four of us draw, cut, sew samples, answer the phone and pack the parcels. Ask for anyone by name.

Ines Calloway

Designer and founder (sample)

Tom Reddish

Pattern cutter (sample)

Hana Orme

Samples and production (sample)

Del Achebe

Studio, stockists and orders (sample)

Come and see the rail

The whole collection hangs in the studio in running order, with swatches of every colour. Visit on a studio day or book an hour.

Demo photos from Pexels by Laura Chouette, Esra Afşar, KAWENY DENYELE, Michael koneckiy, Gülşah Aydoğan, Pavel Danilyuk, Berna, Vitaly Gariev, sundar kr, cottonbro studio, Dream_ maKkerzz, Yuliya Duzhaya, Arina Krasnikova. The theme download contains placeholder pictures, not these photos.